| Need Help With Advanced Guide Posted: 28 Jan 2020 11:56 AM PST I'm thinking about putting together a guide for mid/advanced DST players (or to help people get to that level). While most of these tips are out on the internet, I haven't seen a comprehensive guide that covers some of the best ways to do everything. Here's a brief outline. Any other thoughts / tips that you'd definitely include? I'm trying not to include basic tips that are already extensively covered by guides, and instead provide more insight and "best uses" for things. Was thinking about organizing it mostly around the best use for each biome/tab, and not talk as much about characters (those are covered pretty extensively). I'll also work on formatting if it helps. Biomes Start advice don't build fires the first few days. Build torches, and burn isolated trees if you need to stop for a second / to extend torch life. For everyone but Wigfrid, you can easily live off butterflies (and carrots/berries as needed) while you explore the map. Wigfrid, on the other hand, should get a crockpot going as soon as possible. While not your permanent base, placing a science machine and a crock pot early near the spawn doesn't hurt and isn't a huge waste of resources. Can supplement those with a chest and fire pit as need be, though neither is hugely beneficial. Wicker should definitely make spears and backpacks for everyone from the start, even if you have to wait around a day to do so. Mosaic - gather cobblestones with a pitchfork and bring to base / fill gaps in roads. Otherwise mostly useless outside of basic resources. Rock den is pretty useless, only the mothling has a permanent function (can act as a light source). Forest - Treeguards as source of living logs (with pig huts nearby they can become meat/pigskin farms). Moon stone can be used with star caller's staff to create a permanent cooling effect. Mark areas with lots of blue or green mushrooms (many things you can make, e.g. traps, show up on the map), so you can easily find them later. Grasslands - - Nothing special except for the bee queen. She's easy with wickerbottom and the right resources.
Swamps - - Best uses for reed trap. Lureplant!!
Rocky - - Besides the obvious (rocks), good source of turf to use in connection with eyeplant farms. Also needed to make more cobblestones for base/arena.
Savanna - - Beefalo may be one of the most misunderstood mobs (or at least most disagreed with a wide variety of opinions). They can be effective to de-aggro hounds, but there are better was to deal with hounds. There are also better ways to mass farm manure. And after the first winter or two, their fur isn't really needed anymore to make winter clothing. I'll kill them in the early game to get meat, fur, and maybe a horn.
Desert - Tumbleweeds are probably the most efficient way of gathering twigs and grass, especially with the possibility of getting better drops (gears, etc.). Cactus is insanely powerful to cook or to use to make pierogies. Cactus flowers make good filler and healing sources (even just all four in a crock pot). Good to thin out the hound mounds, but still leave some for monster meat farming. Presents a strong base in both winter (cactus still grows, dragonfly pools provide endless heat) and summer (not a lot of stuff that can burn, tumbleweeds provide easy resources, plus the oasis). Can be good not to tribute antlion in the summer if you are exploring the caves, as the cave in boulders can be useful (source of rocks / trap mobs). Fishing the oasis can be a pain since the beach toy / blueprints are not common drops. Volt goat can be a decent farm if you charge them first and wear full insulation. Buzzards can also serve as quick food sources for bacon and eggs. Tabs: Tools - Better to use the gold tools (4x more durability) unless you are playing with a wigrid (she will need the gold). Use the pickaxe down to 9% and save to more efficiently make heat stones (but you knew this already). The beefalo stuff is only worth it if you are trying to get to fuelweaver - it will allow you to carry the suspicious marble parts going full speed when mounted (though, even then, it may not be depending on your setup of the suspicious marble things). The easiest way is just to feed a beefalo a few (6-7) grass, twigs, or reeds to get its obedience up and allow you to saddle it. You will need to jump off pretty frequently (I think around 10-15 seconds), as you won't get very long to ride it before it bucks you off. Once you jump off feed it a couple more grass, etc. to keep the obedience up. Light - Nothing crazy here. Should zoom to miner hats and lanterns to keep moving at night. Also good, though expensive to your rock supply, to build a network of endo fire pits along your main routes. That way you can move around during summer as needed and cool off with just logs, etc., without having to carry nitre everywhere. Survival - Use bug nets to make butterfly farms. You can literally survive an entire summer just by picking tumbleweeds, burning the grass/twigs in an endo, and killing butterflies. Also its an incredibly effective way to spawn krampus easy. Put thermal stones in chests or far from fires when not in use to prevent durability loss. Make telltale hearts when you have full health, so you aren't worried about making them later when your health may be low. Bundling wrap is one of the best items in the game. It's also emulated to a degree by the gift wrap from winter's feast. You know this one too, but umbrella + right head gear gives you 100% rain protection. So in spring you can wear a top hat, miner hat, football helm, battle helm, etc. and not get wet at all. The one exception is TamO - so in spring you can split between an eyebrella, umbrella + hat (both with full wetness protection), and give the Tam to someone with neither to raise sanity (if you don't want to waste too many pigskins on umbrellas). You can switch as warranted. Food tab - Ignore farms for the most part; they just aren't efficient. It's not a bad idea to have one or two to try to get specific farm food (for example, for Warly), but trying to "farm" things like dragonfruit is largely just going to be a time suck that keeps you anchored to your base. Late game may be different, when you don't mind being stuck, but in general and especially the early going farms aren't a good idea. Bee boxes can be great, but you need a proper flower setup around them to maximize honey production. Drying racks are a good way to extend food life, and jerky remains one of the most versatile foods. No need to put rot in ice boxes - just leave it on the ground. I usually like to have one more crockpot than the number of players (3 for 2 players, 4 for 3, etc.). You can easily waste tons of time cooking food. If you can cook 5 at once that will make you much more efficient. Science tab - Mostly known but an alchemy engine can teach you everything the science machine can (so hammer the science machine once you can build alchemy!). Flingos target everything within their range, but there is a hierarchy for smoldering, so you can expand their range by putting easy-smoldering stuff within their range and not worry about the other stuff outside of it. The lureplant will smolder before everything else, so you can put one on the edge of the flingo and easily extent protection. You will just need to make sure your base is appropriately turfed to keep the eyeballs from growing in unwanted places. Fight tab - Shoot almost immediately for dark swords. It's also not a bad idea to have prepared a ham bat early so you can make one on the fly. To the extent you can avoid spears in view of these two, you should. Log suits and football helmets are pretty much the standard armors. The big exception is when wigfrid is around, since she can easily make spears and helmets. The downside to her, though, is rocks and gold can quickly become scarce resources. IMO, it's much better to shift to pig farms to make an excess of pig skins (ham bats and football helmets) and only rely on the helmets and spears in the early game (especially since her spears are eclipsed by other weapons). Structures - I like to spread chests out to help separate what I frequently need from what I don't. So, for example, things like feathers, stingers, and beefalo wool can go in a far away chest, where items like silk, pig skins, and the like go in one near the fire. Other things that you probably won't get more than a stack of, like gems, can go in a single chest together. Others, like wood or flint, should get their own storage area so they don't clog up space. Obviously go with whatever system you like the most, but it drives me crazy when the chests closest to the fire are filled with junk you'll never need. Get that stuff out of the way so you aren't thinking about it! There are some items that can/should just be left on the ground rather than clog up room in chests - especially stuff like rot, torches, used tools, head and chest clothing, etc. I've seen a lot of people waste resources on building tons of chests because they store everything in one. The only thing chests are really necessary for are resources that may be eaten if left on the ground. So I usually put rot and manure near the things that need fertilizer, all the tools in the same place, etc. Use wood fences to make a gobbler trap around the berry bushes. Put a powdercake in the middle (or really anything else the turkeys eat) and laugh when they walk up to the fence like idiots waiting for the slaughter. Hammer pig houses on the outskirts of the map, but leave the ones that you will pass more frequently (e.g., pig king). Most of you know this, but hammering the houses yields only half the resources to make a house. So figure out the houses that are inconvenient and turn those into houses that are. But leave, for example, the ones near the pig king since you will likely return there enough to justify keeping the houses as is. For rabbit houses, whenever you encounter them bring them to the surface. It's much easier to make efficient farms on the surface than worry about trying to use them to your advantage in the caves. Bird cage is CRITICAL. Biggest mistake new/mid level players make is not having a bird cage ready to go by winter. After the fire pit, alchemy engine, and crock pot, it is the next thing you should try to make. Refine Tab: - Don't really have anything to add here.
Magic Tab: Meat Effigies just aren't good in DST. Pan flutes - don't make anything else with a mandrake (or eat it). Need to get the prestihatitator up by winter, otherwise you will have to do it in summer. Life giving amulets are a good use of red gems, as is a fire staff. Most people end up hoarding them, but at 2 nightmare fuel and a spear (or three gold) it's better to use them. Purple gems are largely worthless outside of the shadow manipulator. The high resource costs of the telelocator and nightmare amulet aren't really worth their limited benefit. Otherwise the moon rock idol is their best use. Blue gems are probably best for making an ice chester or ice staff. The chilled amulet can be helpful, but at 3 gold I'd rather spend one more and have a more permanent endo placed somewhere on the map, or save the blue gems to make an ice chester (which can give you unlimited exploration range in summer with 2 thermal stones). Belt of hunger puts the slurper belts to use, and is helpful for wolfgang. Otherwise its pretty limited use. Night armor is a great upgrade to damage for armor, but can really drain sanity. I usually just stick to the dark sword. Dress Tab: Not really much that needs to go here other than just learning what everything does. Need to know the difference between things that are useful - sewing kit, walking cane, eyebrella, and other things with more luxury/niche uses - top hat (when plenty of silk but little sanity), beekeeper hat (when plenty of silk and need to mess with bees), beefalo hat (when one of the beefalo you killed for food dropped a horn), winter hat (when they didn't). there's a lot of stuff that just isn't that useful. Melon's and Ice Cube's are better at getting you wet. Really the only summer clothes . The rain coat and rain hat are also really expensive for what you get. Garlands you should never make (because you should never be picking flowers). Ditto earmuffs. Things like the Dapper Vest, Breezy Vest and Cat Cap are pretty terrible for what they do. Even the puffy vest, with its extreme insulation, is questionable since it takes up the backpack slot and doesn't restore a ton of sanity. The floral shirt does have some use in summer, since there are fewer things that delay heating (i don't really make it though). BUT, you have to remember to get the reeds in advance to make it or you will have to gather 12 in the summer. The straw hat gives you small protection at a modest cost. If you don't have a walking cane or eyebrella by summer, the umbrella can provide decent protection in the hand slot. Ultimately the best way to deal with summer heat is with a cold stone and a path of endos to cool off. Hibearnation Vest is pretty good if you can live with the loss of the backpack - it restores a good amount of sanity, slows hunger, and stalls freezing. It's great to pair with a helmet if you are fighting as wolfgang in the winter. the goggles are really just good to deal with antlion. Ancient Tab: This one is all about the gems you have, and also what isn't that useful. For the orange stone, both the explorer (for fuel weaver) and forager (for the ruins pits and monkey farms) have some specific uses. Yellow gem is probably the most useful in DST, with the magiluminescence and star caller's staff. And best of all they can both be made on a broken station! Green gems also provide good upside. You should pretty much always build the construction amulet first, followed by using the amulet to make the deconstruction staff. I've seen all different opinions on the best thing to use them on to save resources - in my view the best are scaled flooring (to mass produce scales), thulecite suits (same for thulecite). Obviously you can also extend limited use items like the weather pain or pan flute. Other uses for the glossamer saddle and fur tuft/thick fur seem good. Things that I don't think are useful are thulecite walls, thulecite medallions, pick/axe, thulecite club (better to have 3 dark swords), thulecite suit (except for mass producing - i just usually prefer head armor to body armor). Have not become familiar enough with sailing to include it at this point, but I'm all ears for any tips. Miscellaneous / Mob based: Going insane is GOOD. It's how you farm living logs. Same thing with ugly looking stuff like spiders, hound mounds, tallbirds, etc. Same thing with poison birchnut trees. Don't burn them down!! Always fight on a road when you can. It makes a huge difference. Birch nuts are the best way to farm living logs, particularly autumn, but they are also a pain in the arse. Pigs can help with that. So can the weather pain. Weapons/armor dropped by enemies that is awesome include tentacle spikes and slurtle helmets (the pointy shells). Tentacles are easy to acquire, but don't have a ton of durability. Don't waste them on easy mobs - spiders, pigs, etc. Save them for when you more acutely need the extra damage. Slurtles (pointy shells) offer really great armor with a relatively low spawn chance (10%). The snurtle armor is good - but only when you are hiding in it. Let other things fight for you! I see people all the time who are gung ho about trying to "solo" boss mobs, and they inevitably die trying. If you are playing with others check the ego at the door. The easiest ways to kill bosses is to have them fight each other (or other mobs). Use Bearger to spawn treeguards and farm living logs. Us Bearger to kill Deerclops (make sure to stay far away near a fire so you don't fall asleep away from one). Etc. Etc. Koalefant - having one penned in the base is never a bad idea as an emergency food source / for shizes and giggles. MacTusk - need to go after him on day 1 of winter. Obvious method where you chase him to the end and he walks back. Better to go after him with 2 people (one can get hounds, other can get walrus). Can also plant a spider nest or pigs/bunnies to distract him. Downside of the spider nest is the hounds will eat it if its not fully developed. Bunnies/Pigs/Spiders - Good to set up farms early to have them make resources for you (as opposed to having to manually kill them). If Wicker, tentacles make great additions since they don't eat the goodies. Treeguards are also good since the pigs try to fight them. Bunnies are ok with spiders (won't eat the carrots or the puffs), but better with tentacles. Bunnies aren't good for "wars," since tehy only aggro one at a time. Put Warly spices on a powdercake so you can buff whenever you want. For Ancient Guardian in the labyrinth, the cheap/easy way to kill him is to hide behind graves and pillars that he can't get past. His drops can fall out of bounds though. Easy way to kite beefalo is to hit one, wait until one separates from the group chasing you, stand next to it so it doesn't walk back with its buddies, and then murder when his buddies are gone. For clockworks, I kite the knight, try to draw the rook out of bounds so he hops back, and face tank the bishop. The rook is also fun to have knock down trees to try to spawn treeguards. When you get a glow berry immediately go to the surface and make moggles. They make the ruins much easier. Don't fight Ewecus alone. Bring pigs. Ghosts can haunt hounds and turn them into blue or red ones to farm gems. The best way to farm krampus, imo, is to murder a bunch of pigs/tallbirds and follow that up with a trip to the butterfly farm. Rinse and repeat. I think the eyebrella is a superior item to the houndius. I usually make one first, and then aim to make the houndius shootius in the second winter. If you have a wickerbottom, use the lure plants to farm resources like twigs, grass, and reeds (if you can). With a guardian pig set piece you can trap them by their lights with walls after they die to make a base with a permanent light source (you will need something on the ground to placate them on a full moon). relatedly, you can put food (esp a powdercake) on the ground surrounded by fences in your pig village. They will become distracted werepigs at the full moon which you can pick off one at a time. hammer underground bunny huts during the daytime so you only have to kill them one at a time (assuming you have meat on you). I think of a ruins run like an attempt to climb a tall mountain. I usually like to have a true base camp at the start of the ruins (preferably with a bird cage). Once you get to a safe spot on the other side of the monkeys, make a smaller base camp (usually just a fire pit, crock pot, and chest). Once you get deep in, you can make other camps that are effectively just a fire pit. Don't rush it all at once. Build out one camp at a time, making sure to clear out a clean path between each one. Use hutch to fight the big tentacles - put a spear and a light bulb in him so he turns spikey and does damage to things that attack him. He will wipe out the mini tentacles pretty easily. Communicate. Use a mic or, at the very least, a keyboard. submitted by /u/Howell317 [link] [comments] |
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